Why microblading can look like a tattoo (and how to prevent this mistake)
Trends come and go, but one thing that will always be in style is beautiful, natural-looking brows! Microblading masters should know all the tricks for creating lifelike eyebrows that suit each client’s facial features, skin tone and personal preferences. Eye Design recommends every technician takes the following key steps in order to avoid creating the dreaded “tattoo brows.”
Clients can be nervous during their microblading treatment for a variety of reasons. Some fear the procedure may be painful (don’t worry--it’s not), while others anticipate a lengthy healing process (take care of your brows and the recovery period will go by quickly).
The most common concern we hear, however, is that clients want their brows to look natural. After all, there are a lot of microblading-gone-wrong stories out there. At Eye Design we want to give every client the look that is perfect for him or her as an individual. Our technicians take everything from face shape to skin tone and skin type (and beyond!) into consideration before getting to work. We want all of our Eye Design University students to do the same for their clients!
One major concern instructors have for their students is that it is all too easy to make microbladed brows look like old-school tattooed brows. The ability to avoid this mistake really sets technicians apart from those who are not trained to avoid it! Clients select a studio based on several factors, but one factor that has a major influence over a client’s decision is the studio’s ability to produce modern, natural-looking and all-around beautiful results--no one wants the ashy, block-style permanent brows of yesteryear.
Perhaps the easiest mistake to avoid is choosing the wrong pigment formula! Many options on the market have a thin, watery texture, which causes pigment to look blurry as it settles under the skin. Similarly, a lot of pigments have an undertone that is way too cool to be used on clients. Veins and capillaries under the skin naturally allow pigments to heal with a slightly cooler undertone, and for this reason you should only work with warm or neutral colors. Otherwise, your client will be stuck with ashy or blue-gray eyebrows.
Warm pigments will heal with a neutral or neutral-warm undertone, while neutral pigments will heal with a neutral or neutral-cool undertone. If you want the pigment to heal with a warm undertone, add an orange Correction Pigment; if you want the pigment to heal with an olive undertone, add a yellow-green Correction Pigment. Keep in mind that it is much easier to correct eyebrows that are too warm than it is to correct brows that are too cool. You should never (ever!) use a solid black pigment on any client for any reason--even on those who have natural black eyebrow hairs!
For the most part, however, avoiding tattoo-style eyebrows relies on the technician’s skills. The good news? With enough practice anyone can become a skilled master. Learning correct eyebrow shapes and hair-stroke patterns is essential for creating lifelike results. Brow shapes differ based on the client’s face shape and personal preference; hair-stroke patterns can change depending on the client’s ethnic background.
When eyebrows are out of place, they will look like stamps. This is considered incorrect throughout the industry. All technicians should learn how to use a Golden Mean Caliper--and continue using one each time they go through the drawing process.
Eyebrows frame the entire face, so assessing each client’s one-of-a-kind features is more important than many technicians realize. So, be sure to take your time measuring all the proportions thoroughly. The more you practice, the more quickly you will get the hang of it!